Chapter 15 - Slowboat on the Mekong, Laos

From January 2nd to the 4th I was a fugitive from the Thai authorities for violating my 30-day visa. I can't believe its already been thirty days. I feel like I just got here and I don't even know how to say "thank you" correctly. With no time to stick around and find out, I'm off to the Laos border by mini-bus. At twilight I got my first look at the Mighty Mekong River. It looks like a slow moving chocolate milk spill.



I spent the night at a guest house on the Thailand side. When I woke up in the morning there was a great sense of adventurism in the air. Across the Mekong river was Laos, the first communist country I'll visit and a place that was completely cut off from western society until 1990. The clouds concealing the other side of the river made it all the more mysterious.

At the Thai border office they held onto my passport rather than give me my visa for Laos. They brought me into a back room. On a little wooden table I saw my passport and a pair of shiny metal thumbcuffs. They look like little handcuffs; perhaps used in tortures of some kind. I sat down at the little chair and an officer sat down on the other side and looks at my papers. He breathes deeply and looks at me very seriously and says "three days..." [followed by another long sigh and a long pause for dramatic buildup] He made it seem like I'd created some international incident. In reality it happens all the time, and the fine is just a four dollars per day. When the officer realized I knew the deal, he cracked a wide smile, revealing that his seriousness was just an act. I was thinking this must be the best part of his job because every 5th tourist probably wets their pants or cries or something. After some laughs he showed me how the thumbcuffs work, I got my visa, and set off across the river on these long skinny boats.

This is the shore of Laos as I'm approaching in the water taxi.

On the Laos side of the Mekong I could clearly see a difference between the countries. In Thailand people seem to move a little quicker and get things done with a smile. In Laos the people seem nice but also seem bored and more likely to make a "damn tourist" expression. I suppose that will change over time as they get used to our money.

The kids are the exception to this generalization. They look at us with fascinated eyes as if we are aliens from another planet. Its a great experience when they wave at you and say "Sa-wah-dee" or "Hello." Just today a little boy about 2 years old came waddling up to the chain fence of his pre-school just to wave. It was a long distance for him so I stopped to wait for him. It was one of those little kid waves where they wiggle their hand at the wrist. Good stuff.

This is the ramp down to the Slow Boats. They are about 150 ft. long and 15 ft. Across. Since the Mekong is shallow and has jagged rocks in many places, these are the only boats that work. The boats are packed with over 80 people and cargo, and it is pretty amazing that the rickety old wood doesn't fall apart under the weight. At the last minute this American guy got a panic attack and went scrambling for his pack and jumped off the boat. People said he backed away from the boat with this frightened look in his eyes like the boat was evil and we were all doomed. Wimp.

This was to be our home for two days. Sitting on those wooden benches cramped together is fun for some, and a nightmare for others. I enjoyed seeing the different reactions of people; especially the people with ghastly expressions who were expecting the Love Boat.

If you were late getting on the boat, like these people, you had to sit in the back in the engine room. Imagine 6 hours next to a giant diesel engine that is loud as hell and spitting out noxious fumes. Pretty grim.

Riverside concessions.

Since I'm not much of a writer I won't be able to describe the views. Just imagine these pictures (in much greater detail) surrounding you in all 360 degrees. The air is cool and the sun is shining and there is a slight breeze. You here the engine noise and the various conversations around you. That's the best I can do.

These are two good Canadian folks who were very nice. They are on their honeymoon which seems like a great idea. If they can be happy sitting on the floor of a slowboat for hours, using newspapers for warmth, I think they've got a good future together.

At the end of the first day we arrive in a tiny little village called Pakbong. It just serves as stopover for the Slowboating tourists but has some interesting people.

As you get off the boat kids swarm you wanting to carry your pack. Some people were getting agitated at this, but I saw it as good service. My pack weighed more than this kid and it nearly killed him, so I gave him a three dollar tip that seemed to make his day.

This young man is named Sivilay. He is a newlywed, father-to-be, former orphan in a monastery, Buddhist monk for 10 years, and now a restaurant entrepreneur. All this and he is only 23. Look for this guy to become the president of Laos someday. One of those sincerely positive people in the world. If anyone who reads this goes this route into Laos, stop in at his restaurant and you'll see what I mean.

In the evening there wasn't much of anything going on. However these guys (Irish, English, Irish) got wasted from a strong rice wine called Lau Lau that gets poured out of an old motor oil container. As you can see it does the job.

In the morning everyone rushes to get a good seat on the boat. Especially the people who sat in the engine room the day before.

More scenery which I liked even more on the second day.

More curious kids.

This guy's smile captures it. If you are one of those people who can look at the slow moving scenery and be content in the present moment, like this guy, the slow boat is a terrific experience.

Arrival in Luang Prabang under the sunset.

-Thanks for reading-