2/10/2006

Chapter 23 - Phnom Penh, Cambodia


It was nice to cross the border into Cambodia. The weather is great and the people live up to their friendly reputation. Phnom Penh (pronounced like Nom-Pen) is a very interesting place. You can volunteer to help orphans, or shoot a rocket launcher. There's something for everybody.   It also has a sad history because of the Khmer Rouge Genocide. If you thought my Saigon chapter was depressing, this one is even worse. However I can't show Cambodia without mentioning what happened less than 30 years ago.

Short Version:
During the "American War" across the border in Vietnam, Cambodia was officially a neutral country. However the United States kept an eye on Cambodia and supported the government, while dropping bombs on areas of Cambodia where Vietnamese soldiers were hiding. Many Cambodians were killed by these bombs, and blamed the Cambodian government for allowing it to happen.


At the same time, the Cambodian government was dealing with a communist insurgency, led by a group called the Khmer Rouge. They were extremist communists who wanted Cambodia to be 100% farmers who ALL believed in the same dream: a collective state focused on erasing the past and cutting off the outside world. They thought that anything that stood in the way of this goal, such as human rights and personal freedoms didn't matter.

  As the U.S. pulled the troops from Vietnam in 1975, and the Cambodian government was left without support from the United States. Seeing their big chance, the Khmer Rouge army attacked and successfully took over Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. They renamed the country Democratic Kampuchea. It was definitely NOT democratic.

The top leader was this man, Pol Pot.

Once they took over, they immediately evacuated Phnom Penh and forced everyone to move away from the cities and work farming and manual labor jobs out in the country. They killed of all of the educated people and anyone who might not believe in the the Khmer Rouge ideology. The goal was to create a communist utopia where the past was erased. Older people were often killed by children working for the Khmer Rouge, because they remembered life before the Khmer revolution. All families were broken apart and people were executed for communicating with their family members. They cut off all ties with the outside world, and banned anyone from watching television or radio from outside. The wanted total mind control over their people.

Khmer Rouge leaders

Life for Cambodians was very very bad. The Khmer leadership ruled so badly, and executed so many people that nobody really knows how many died. Most estimates say between one and two million people died. That's particularly shocking because the total population was only about 7 million people.

These are seriously evil guys. On the left is Brother Number One, Pol Pot. On the right is Comrade Dutch who is responsible for the torture and execution of over 17,000 people. He ran Tuol Sleng S-21 prison in Phnom Penh. The prison is now a museum.
Every prisoner who went through S-21 prison was photographed and files contained detailed descriptions of their traitorous acts. Looking at their faces is a tough thing to do because all but seven were later executed. This included women and children. As you look in their eyes you can feel their confusion and fear. These were normal people who hadn't hurt anyone.
The purpose of the prison was to torture the captives until they gave up the names of other "traitors". The only way to stop the torture was to implicate and name other people. Those implicated would be the next people picked up and brought to the prison, continuing the genocidal cycle.


When the Vietnamese arrived at the prison it was abandoned by the Khmer Rouge. They found tortured bodies chained to beds. This is one of the beds and the picture on the wall shows the victim who died there.

When the prisoners had fully confessed to their "crimes"and provided lists of others "spies", they were put on trucks at night and driven down this road.

The trucks full of prisoners stopped here at Choeung Ek. This is the infamous Killing Fields.

The preconceived images in my head were of a huge rice field full of bones and blood, accompanied by a sad musical score. In reality it was quite small and quiet. Just holes in the ground.

The only building at the site is this tall shrine. Inside there are shelves that run to the very top. Each shelf is filled with the skulls of the victims. In order to save bullets, most victims had their heads smashed in.


Meanwhile, the world did nothing. They were either too busy, unaware, or unwilling to intervene. Finally in 1979 the Vietnamese took over Cambodia and put an end to the insanity. Most of the Khmer Rouge leaders were never put on trial, and have died of old age.


To read more on Wikipedia, click here

To see all of my pictures of Tuol Sleng Prison click here

-------------------

  So now Cambodia is rebuilding and trying to heal the wounds of the recent past. Cambodians are now very poor and need education and jobs. With the help of tourism, volunteers from outside, and international aid, there is some noticeable progress. Here's the pictures from Phnom Penh...


Back of Motorbike Cam

Tonle Sap River

Cambodia National Museum


Most of the cheap backpacker hotels are built out along the edge of the Boeng Kak lake. It looks nice and has a great sunset. No swimming though because its insanely polluted. It had the color of that bright green stuff that drips out from under an old car.












-Thanks for reading, next stop Ankor Wat-


1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Wow Anderson...that's all I can say. When are you coming home?